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If you do a quick search of the internet for articles on shellac you will find hundreds, maybe even thousands of them discussing different aspects of this historic product. You will undoubtedly find articles discussing shellac's history and origins. Just in case you don't know, shellac is a resin secreted by the Lac Beetle and primarily harvested from India and other countries in south Asia. Favored by furniture makers during the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries, as well as antique furniture refinishers and period piece makers today, it fell out of general favor after the development of lacquers and hard wearing polyurethanes.

Modern woodworkers have created dozens of lists explaining why you should or shouldn't use shellac. All of these lists are written by people with years of experience and mounds of success with the various products they support. Without having to recreate the Lincoln-Douglas debates over the subject, it is clear that both sides are missing the number one reason that sets shellac apart from other finishes available today, parenthood.

Parenthood you say? I'll explain. So there you are in your shop. Your new baby is inside your home starting to crawl and play (and chew) on everything in sight and you have decided that your child will have only the best and finest crafted wooden toys. All made by you; parent, hero, and most importantly woodworker. As the first few toys come rolling off the assembly table, you start thinking about the paint thinner, latex gloves, and the various toxic components in oil based polyurethanes, not to mention the mess that has been required for every other project you've completed. That doesn't sound like anything that you want your new pride and joy to cut that first incisor on now does it? Shellac to the rescue.

That's right; parenthood and shellac go hand in hand. Why you ask? The first and best reason is that shellac is non-toxic once cured. So non-toxic in fact, that a shellac/wax mixture is used to coat apples in supermarkets. It is also used as a coating for pills, candy, and the inside of ice cream cones. Far more shellac is used by the food and pharmaceutical industries than the woodworking industry. I still wouldn't hand your child a bowl of shellac flakes and soy milk, but it's nice to know that your teething toddler isn't getting a mouthful of toxic chemicals.

So shellac is safe for the kids. That alone should be reason to use it, but there are others. Children as most parents will tell you are incredibly destructive. Who wants to refinish a toy that has a chipped and cracked poly finish all over it? That is a lot of sanding and headache to get a surface ready to be refinished. However with shellac, a light scuff sanding and then a fresh coat will fix everything. The new coat will melt right into the old, creating a piece that looks like new. Plus it is incredible quick to dry. Thin coats (recommended) will dry in minutes. If the finish is applied in the morning, your little one could be playing with that favorite toy before the day is out. Firewood, logs, eco logs, fire hearth, hardwoods, bonfire, fireplace

Here is a short list of a few more benefits:

• Incredibly clarity, even with the darker toned shellacs
• Wood looks more natural, feels better to the touch
• Can add color to the wood without the use of other stains
• If you are using pine, shellac will seal the knots and stop the pitch from bleeding through
• Forgivable and repairable
• Contrary to popular belief, is actually quite tough and durable
• Versatile application methods - can be wiped, padded, brushed, or sprayed
• Fun to mix up ( I like mixing up shellac - what of it)

Where can you find woodworking gifts?
At WoodZone.com of course! We’ve put together “gift ideas” and “gift collections” to help you select the perfect gift with ease. Even better, we offer these woodworking gift ideas and collections based on skill level and at a discount!

Workshop Dust Control

An introduction to the methods and strategies for effective dust control.

Whether you're working in a commercial woodworking shop, or on the first project in your garage, dust control is an important issue. With repercussion ranging from dust in your finish to potential health issues, dust control tools and measures have become more prominent in woodworking over the last decade. The good news is that the vast majority of dust can be controlled with a few simple steps. Firewood, logs, eco logs, fire hearth, hardwoods, bonfire.

Reasons to Control Dust:

Health Effects
The health effects of long-term exposure to wood dust are the primary reason to control dust in your workshop. When I was in high school I worked in a lumberyard cutting wood for customers. I never wore any hearing or dust protection equipment. I discovered that after about four years I was more sensitive to the dust and would become congested and tight in my chest.

Now I wear a respirator whenever I work with wood. I discovered later that my experience is not unique. I've heard many stories from professional woodworkers who have had to retire due to severe allergies stemming from decades of working without any form of dust control. Beyond simple allergic reactions other health effects include: Eye & Skin Irritation, Respiratory Effects, Nasal Cancer and increased sensitivity. Firewood, logs, eco logs, fire hearth, hardwoods, bonfire.

Fire Risk
Sawdust poses a serious fire hazard in a workshop. Wood is flammable and the light powdery dust form it can burn very quickly and with explosive force. If wood dust is concentrated heavily in the air, and then exposed to a spark, it can cause an explosion. The fire jumps from particle to particle in a similar manner as a grain silo explosion. Fortunately this is not very common. Sawdust lying around your shop is more likely to catch fire and burn from a stray spark or flame. Firewood, logs, eco logs, fire hearth, fireplace, hardwoods, bonfire.

Slipping Hazard
Sawdust on a smooth floor can become slippery and cause accidents.

Dust in Finishes
If your trying to achieve a smooth "piano like" finish it will not be possible with dust in the workshop. The dust will settle on your finish and leave imperfections.

Tool Life
Dust collected in power tools can reduce their lifespan. The dust can block air ports and get into the internal parts thus shortening their life. The best way to control this is to draw the dust away from the tool with a vacuum during use. (More on this later) You should also use compressed air (or a vacuum) to blow dust out of the inside of the tool. Firewood, logs, eco logs, fire hearth, fireplace, hardwoods, bonfire.

Regulatory
If you run a commercial woodworking shop, dust control is the law. There are various regulations covering employee's exposure to dust in the workplace. Effective dust control is required to comply with these laws and avoid heavy OSHA fines. Firewood, logs, eco logs, fire hearth, hardwoods, bonfire.

Checking for Dust in the Shop
Still not convinced that you need to control the dust in your workshop? Then try this simple test. After a day of working in your shop turn off the lights and use a bright flashlight or a laser pointer. You will see all of the particles in the path of the light beam. Keep in mind that this is the same air that you're breathing! You either need to remove the dust from air or your lungs will do it for you! Note: This simple test is useful for determining if your shop is clean enough for applying a finish to your project. Firewood, logs, eco logs, fire hearth, fireplace, hardwoods, bonfire.

Types of Dust
There are three types of "dust" that you will encounter in your workshop. Each of these requires a slightly different control strategy. 

Shavings
Wood shavings are typically created by planeing wood by hand. These shavings are long and curly. Shavings don't affect your lungs, but they do require special collection considerations. They may tend to clog dust hoses and are best collected with a dustpan.

Chips
Chips are smaller than shavings and are typically generated by routers, shapers, and planers. Electric planers can produce a lot of shavings and require a good shop vac or collection system to run smoothly. Check your vacuum frequently as these savings can fill up a system quickly. Sawdust is often created at the same time as chips.

Sawdust
Sawdust in the workshop is a serious safety issue and requires proper control. The fine dust can be difficult to control and requires special precautions. Dust is most frequently created as a by-product to cutting operations such as with a table or band saw or from sanding. The best way to control sawdust is at the source, as we will discuss below. Firewood, logs, eco logs, fire hearth, hardwoods, fireplace, bonfire.

Dust Control Strategies

Shop Ventilation
There are many dust control strategies and the most effective are often the simplest. The hazards are increased when dust is concentrated into an enclosed area. Because of this opening a door, window, or garage door can have a big impact. Even more effective is to use a fan to blow the dust out. You can also work outside for especially dusty operations. Firewood, logs, eco logs, fire hearth, fireplace, hardwoods, bonfire.

Masks & Respirators
Dust masks and respirators are an important part of personal protection in a workshop. Even if your working in a well-ventilated shop (or outside) you still need to wear protection. The most common masks are the disposable white cloth masks. These offer some level of protection, but are porous and allow small particles to pass through. They should not be used when working with chemicals, as they can't filter them out.

The second level of protection is a professional respirator. This is a rubber mask that has replaceable canisters. The canisters can be changed for different operations. Canisters for filtering out dust particles are typically made with pleated sheets of filter material.

Chemical filter cartridges typically have carbon in addition to the particle filters. These are useful when working with finishes and chemical strippers. They have a limited lifespan so please read the directions before using.

When using a respirator it is important that it is fitted properly to prevent air from leaking in around the edges. Read the instructions carefully for proper fitting. As a general rule, when working with a respirator, if you can smell the dust or chemicals, you have an air leak. Firewood, logs,  fireplace, eco logs, fire hearth, hardwoods, bonfire.

Air Cleaners
Air cleaners (a.k.a. Air Polishers) are used to continuously filter the air and remove small particles. They are useful for removing the very small dust particles that escaped your dust collection systems. An air cleaner is a good addition to an already existing system but your should put your efforts and money first into controlling dust at the source as well as preventing it from getting into the air in the first place. Air cleaners are also useful for cleaning the air to an extra degree if you are trying to achieve an ultra-fine finish. Firewood, logs, eco logs, fireplace, fire hearth, hardwoods, bonfire.

Tool Dust Collection
As we mentioned above, you should try to control the dust at the source, and tool-based dust collection is the best initial strategy. Many of the tools on the market today offer dust ports and, in some cases, built in dust bags and filters. The dust filters and bags work well but can allow small particles to pass through. The best strategy is to use a hose that connects to the tool's dust. Firewood, logs, eco logs, fireplace, fire hearth, hardwoods, bonfire.

A shop vac or stationary system can then be fitted with HEPA grade <1 micron filters. This not only helps to control dust, but also in the case of sanding, can actually lengthen the life of your sandpaper and make the process go faster. If you have a vacuum system we recommend you upgrade the filter and keep it clean. In our shop, we keep two filters on hand so that we can quickly replace the filter, wash out the dirty one, and allow it time to dry. Firewood, logs, eco logs, fire hearth, hardwoods, bonfire.

Shop Vacuums 
Shop vacuums are very effective at controlling dust. As mentioned above, go ahead and upgrade your filter for the best results. Shop vacuums can be used to suck up dust and wood chips in the shop. They can also be connected directly to hand and stationary shop tools to collect dust. When connected to tools they should be turned on before and after the tool is used. When working with chip producing tools such as a planer or router they may require frequently emptying.

Dust Collectors
Dust collection systems are ideal if you have a large workshop or do a lot of woodworking. The stationary dust collector can be setup out of the way and tied into all of your tools through a central collection line. The systems allow for the use of various fittings and options such as floor sweeps.

Single Stage Dust Collectors
Single stage dust collectors are designed to suck dust and debris into filter bags. They are called single stage because all of the materials are sucked through an impeller on their way to the filters. The primary disadvantage of this, is that the impellers have to be made bigger and stronger to withstand the impact of the debris. The larger impellers tend to be noisier and require more power to turn. Firewood, logs, eco logs, fireplace, fire hearth, hardwoods, bonfire.

Dual Stage Dust Collectors
In a dual stage system the debris first enters a cyclone separator chamber where the large debris is separated from the fine dust. The fine dust then moves on to the filter bags. Because only the dust is passing through the impeller, it can be lighter weight. The filter bags in a dual stage collector are designed to filter out dust (not chips like a single stage). They are often made to <1 micron standards vs. 5 micron for a single stage filter. Firewood, logs, fireplace, eco logs, fire hearth, hardwoods, bonfire.

Pre-Separator
Various pre-separators are available and can be added on to a single stage system to help remove large chips. The separators are typically a plastic cap designed to be fitted onto a metal trashcan. The area within the trashcan allows the large chips to "fall out" and collect at the bottom allowing the fine dust to travel on to the dust bags. While not as efficient as a dual stage system, a pre-separator is a great add on. You will typically experience a static pressure loss with these systems though. Firewood, logs, eco logs, fire hearth, hardwoods,  fireplace, bonfire.

Filter Bags
Filter bags are available in a wide range of sizes and filter ratings. The filters are rated in microns referring to the smallest particle size the bag can filter out. One micron or less is ideal for a shop filter. Most systems come with bags around 5 microns.

Woodworking Shop Safety
10 Safety Tips to Post in Your Shop

1)      Think Before You Cut – The most powerful tool in your shop is your brain, use it. Thinking your cuts and movements through before acting can help save both fingers and scrapwood.

2)      Keep a Clean Shop – A cluttered shop is an accident waiting to happen. Keeping your shop clean will help protect you, and your tools, from tripping hazards.

3)      Avoid Distractions – Pay attention to your actions. Looking up to watch the shop TV or visitor can result in your hand contacting the blade. Always wait until you have completed your cut before you take your eyes off the blade.

4)      Don’t Rush – Keep in mind that this is just a hobby and take a break when you feel rushed or frustrated with a project. Mistakes happen when we rush to complete a job.

5)      Don’t Force It – If your saw is resisting the cut, stop and see what’s wrong. A misaligned rip fence or improperly seated throat plate can sometimes cause a board to get stuck in mid cut. Forcing the board in these situations may cause kickback or contact with the blade. Take a moment to evaluate the situation and determine the problem.

6)      Protect Yourself – Wearing the proper shop protection is an important part of safe tool operation. Goggles, Ear Protection, and Lung Protection should be used when operating tools. Use push sticks when working close to the blade and make sure the tool's safety features are in place.

7)      Let the Tool Stop – Giving the power tool time to wind down after a cut is an often-overlooked safety mistake. Even without power, the spinning blade can still do a lot of damage.

8)      Fumes and Dust – Solvent fumes and airborne dust can present health and explosion hazards. Care should be taken to ensure a supply of fresh air and use only explosion proof vent fans.

9)      Wear Appropriate Clothing – Loose clothing or hair can get caught in power tools and cause severe injury.

How can I restore the aroma of my cedar chest and cedar lined drawers?

The linings of cedar chests and drawers often lose their aroma with time and use. The aromatic properties of cedar serve as a natural pest deterrent, keeping moths and other insects away from your clothing. Over time the pores in the cedar can become clogged with dust and dirt or pinched closed from use. This prevents the aromatic oils from escaping and causes old cedar chests to loose their aroma. Firewood, logs, fireplace, eco logs, fire hearth, hardwoods, bonfire.

There are many products on the market to "rejuvenate" the aroma in old cedar furniture such as cedar oil extracts and sprays. A less expensive solution is to lightly sand the surface of the cedar with a fine grit sandpaper (200 grit) and a sanding block. The sandpaper will help "cut" the pores open thus exposing new oil pockets. Try to sand with the grain to avoid scratch marks and don't over-sand. Usually only a light sanding is needed to rejuvenate the wood. Firewood, logs, eco logs, fire hearth, hardwoods, bonfire.

If the cedar has been finished with a sealant such a varnish or polyurethane you will need to sand through the finish to expose the oils. Finishes that have deeply penetrated the wood may have permanently sealed the oils into the wood. Firewood, logs, eco logs, fire hearth, hardwoods, bonfire.

Understanding Common Paint and Finish Strippers

This article will discuss the various chemicals and chemical combinations used in modern paint and varnish removers. It should be noted that this information is presented as a general guide and should not be used in place of the manufacturer's recommendations. You should always read the directions provided by the manufacturer and take care to ensure all safety precautions are followed.

There are many strippers and paint removers available at the local hardware store. This guide is designed to help sort out some of the more common ingredients. Paint and finish stripper manufacturers are required to list their ingredients on the package, making it somewhat easier to understand the product you are purchasing. In addition to the chemicals and solvents discussed below, there are a number of other "professional" stripping chemicals that should only be used by an experienced professional with the proper safety training and equipment. Firewood, logs, eco logs, fire hearth, hardwoods, bonfire.

Understanding Striping Solvents and Chemicals There are only a few commonly used chemicals in modern wood strippers. These solvents and chemicals are sometimes used alone or in varying combinations and strengths. They are commonly listed by the following acronyms:

Solvents:
MC = Methylene Chloride
ATM = Acetone, Toluene, and Methanol
NMP = N-Methyl Pyrrolidone
DBE = di-basic esters

Alkalis:
Lye = Sodium Hydroxide
Ammonia = Ammonia Hydroxide

Recommendations

MC = Methylene Chloride
Methylene Chloride is one of the oldest and most common solvents used in paint and varnish strippers. Although MC is non-flammable it is also toxic and a suspected carcinogen. It metabolizes in the blood to form carbon monoxide. This causes the heart to pump harder and can trigger heart attacks in people with existing heart conditions. For this reason, if you have a heart condition, avoid using a paint remover with MC as a listed ingredient. Firewood, logs, eco logs, fire hearth, hardwoods, fireplace, bonfire.

MC based strippers are available in different strengths and consistencies. Liquid and semi-paste are the most common consistencies. The semi-paste stripper is often used for vertical objects where the stripper needs to cling to the paint. The solvents in these strippers evaporate very quickly so paraffin wax is added to help slow evaporation. The wax will rise to the surface and help form a protective skin. Disturbing the wax skin will cause solvents to escape and weaken the stripper. Firewood, logs, eco logs, fire hearth, hardwoods, bonfire.

Alkali fortified MC is often used in "marine grade" finish removers and are available at most marine supply store. Alkali fortified MC strippers are effective on tougher coatings such as epoxy and polyester. They are more expensive and hazardous to work with so additional care should be taken when selecting and using these stripping agents. Firewood, logs, eco logs, fire hearth, hardwoods, bonfire.

Note: The waxes used in MC based strippers must be removed from the wood before refinishing. Failure to thoroughly remove the wax may cause interference with the new finish. A clean cloth and solvent such as naphtha, lacquer thinner, or alcohol should be used to remove the wax residue left behind when the stripper is removed.

ATM = Acetone, Toluene, and Methanol
These are the three primary ingredients in Lacquer Thinner and are used together to form a very aggressive stripping agent. ATM strippers are available with wax and thickeners to form semi-paste finishes as well as in forms without any of these additives.

ATM Strippers works very well on most old finishes and paints. The chemicals in ATM strippers evaporate very quickly so wax is added to keep them in contact with the paint or finishes long enough to allow them to penetrate and soften the surface. The primary advantage of an ATM stripper is that they are inexpensive and do not have the health concerns of Methylene Chloride. They are flammable and air polluting. Some brands may contain a alkali that will stain some hardwoods. Firewood, logs, eco logs, fire hearth, hardwoods, bonfire.

ATM Refinishers are also available. These products don't contain the wax and thickeners of the ATM Strippers. Because the solvents tend to evaporate quickly the manufacturers recommend you use manual scraping methods with the refinisher. Most people become frustrated with the slow rate of finish removal from ATM Refinishers. Because of this slow rate of removal, and the fact that ATM Refinishers are simply over priced lacquer thinner, we recommend you avoid "ATM Refinishers" and use an "ATM Stripper" instead. Firewood, logs, eco logs, fire hearth, fireplace,  hardwoods, bonfire.

Note: The waxes used in ATM based strippers must be removed from the wood before refinishing. Failure to thoroughly remove the wax may cause interference with the new finish. A clean cloth and solvent such as naphtha, lacquer thinner, or alcohol should be used to remove the wax residue left behind when the stripper is removed. Firewood, logs, eco logs, fire hearth, hardwoods, bonfire.

NMP = N-Methyl Pyrrolidone 
These finishes are not as effective as strippers based on MC and often work at 1/3 to 1/2 the speed. They are also not effective on epoxy, Polyester, or baked on coatings. The solvents in NMP evaporate slowly making wax coatings and additives unnecessary. The slow evaporation also makes NMP less toxic to work with as well as less flammable and less air polluting. The chemicals in NMP are expensive and NMP based strippers are likewise expensive. Firewood, logs, eco logs, fire hearth, hardwoods, fireplace, bonfire.

DBE = di-basic esters
DBE is less effective than the other three strippers described above. Overnight contact is often required to affect the finish and NMP is ineffective on Lacquer and Shellac. It has a very slow evaporation rate making it relatively safe to use and eliminating the need for a wax additive. Some DBE based strippers use water to thin the DBE. The water can cause some problems with old veneers, iron fasteners, and thin wood panels. These strippers should be avoided if you think the water will affect the furniture. Firewood, logs, eco logs, fire hearth, hardwoods, fireplace, bonfire.

NMP/DBE Combination Strippers
A couple of manufacturers have combined the last two solvents into one stripper. The DBE helps to reduce the price of the stripper. Other chemicals are sometimes added to replace the potentially damaging water. The speed of finish removal is still slower that with a MC or ATM based stripper and falls somewhere between NMP and DBE for finish removal. NMP/DBE combination strippers are generally less toxic although some manufacturers will add solvents such as xylene, which make them toxic, air polluting, and flammable. Firewood, logs, eco logs, fire hearth, hardwoods, bonfire.

Alkali Fortifiers

Lye = Sodium Hydroxide
Lye is one of the oldest chemical strippers. It works well but is dangerous to work with and damages the wood. The lye can dissolve glue and causes the woods surface to become soft. It should generally be avoided but can be used sparingly to remove stubborn paint from the wood's pores and to remove finishes from metal hardware (except aluminum). Lye is also effective on old-fashioned milk paint. Another good use for lye, because of its low cost, is removal of paint from large outdoor surfaces such as fences and outdoors siding. It is usually supplied in powdered form and mixed with warm water. Lye can usually be purchased from most paint stores. It is very important to neutralize the lye with a 50/50 solution of water and vinegar to neutralize the lye. It is also very aggressive and cause chemical burns if it comes into contact with your skin. Proper safety procedures should be taken and the manufacturers directions should be followed carefully. Firewood, logs, eco logs, fire hearth, hardwoods, fireplace, bonfire.

Ammonia = Ammonia Hydroxide
Ammonia Hydroxide is often used to fortify solvents and increase their strength. The one downside to using a stripper with ammonia is that it may tend to darken some hardwoods such as oak, mahogany, cherry and walnut.

Which stripper should I use? 
The most aggressive strippers are Methylene Chloride (MC) based. However these strippers should not be used by people with heart conditions or health concerns. If you don't know what type of paint or finish you are removing a Methylene Chloride based finisher is the best bet for effective removal. Firewood, logs, eco logs, fire hearth, hardwoods, fireplace, bonfire.

Polyurethane Finish - Methylene Chloride and methanol
Most old paints and finishes - Methylene Chloride and methanol reduced with acetone and/or toluene 
Epoxy and Polyurethane - Alkali-fortified Methylene Chloride

If you are concerned about the health effects of Methylene Chloride, an ATM based stripper is the next best bet. Although not as strong as a MC based stripper, ATM strippers will remove many paint and finishes.

Understanding and Using Wood Bleaches

Just as you can put color into wood with stain you can remove it from the wood with bleach. Woodworkers often use wood bleaches to lighten the natural color of woods or to even out color differences between heart and sapwood. Bleaches can also be used to remove black water stains, iron stains, and to lighten pigments and stains.

The bleaches work through a chemical reaction between the bleach and the color in the wood. These reactions differ from bleach to bleach and, as we will discuss later, the correct bleach will depend on the situation. The bleaches don't actually remove the color from the wood. They react with the chemical substances to convert them to a substance that is colorless.

Bleaching wood is not difficult. Selecting the proper bleach can require some attention. All of the chemicals used to bleach wood can be dangerous if used improperly so care should be taken to protect you from contact with their chemicals. Wear gloves and goggles and read the direction on the container carefully. Two part bleaches contain hydrogen peroxide, which will burn your skin. Keep water nearby and immediately rinse off any of the bleach that touches your skin.

These bleaches only work on bare wood so be sure to remove any finishes before attempting to bleach the wood There are three primary bleaches used by woodworkers today.

Two-Part bleaches are a combination of sodium hydroxide and hydrogen peroxide. These bleaches are used to lighten the natural color of the wood. They are sold in separate containers because they chemically neutralize each other when mixed. When the chemicals are mixed on the wood itself the reaction removes the color from the wood. They can tend to remove the luster from wood as well so care should be taken to test the results on a piece of scrap wood. Two part bleaches remove the natural color of the wood and bleach it to an off-white color. This type of bleach is also en excellent choice when you need to even out the color variations between heartwood and sapwood before applying a stain. The sodium hydroxide in two-part bleaches can burn your skin so care should be taken to protect your skin and eyes. Firewood, logs, eco logs, fire hearth, hardwoods, fireplace, bonfire.

Chlorine Bleach can be used to remove dye stain from wood in much the same way that it removes color from clothing. Household bleaches such as Chlorox can be used but they tend to be weak and require multiple treatments. The shock treatments used for swimming pools contain a higher concentration of chlorine bleach and can be used for a more-aggressive bleaching treatment. Chlorine bleaches can also be used to remove some food stains such as grape juice. Firewood, logs, eco logs, fire hearth, hardwoods, fireplace, bonfire.

Oxalic Acid is an excellent choice for removing iron stains and black water rings from old furniture. It is sold in a dry crystal form and is available at most hardware stores. You will often see oxalic acid labeled as "Wood Bleach" so check the label to make sure you are getting the right product. It can also be used to remove some inks and pigmented stains. Oxalic acid is also often found in deck cleaners because it works well with old weathered wood. Firewood, logs, eco logs, fire hearth, hardwoods, fireplace, bonfire.

Neutralizing Bleached after Use
After the bleaches have completed their jobs they should be neutralized with water and then followed up with a water/baking soda mix. Two-part bleaches can be neutralized with a 1-part vinegar to 2-parts water bath. Firewood, logs, eco logs, fire hearth, hardwoods, fireplace, bonfire.

Wood Putty 101

With many types of wood putty on the market we prepared this quick guide to help cover the basics. Wood putty is often used to fill small nicks, gouges, and cracks. It can be quite effective for filling small defects in a wood's surface.

Wood putty is simply a binder such as a wood finish or glue mixed with solid material such as sawdust, calcium carbonate, gypsum, or wood flour (fine sawdust). The binder simply holds the filler together. The three types of wood putty are:

Nitrocellulose-based - This type of wood putty cures very fast and can be cleaned up or thinned with acetone or lacquer thinner. Brands include: Famowood, DAP brand "Wood Dough", Miracle WOOD, and others.

Acrylic-based - This wood putty cleans up with water until it cures. Acetone, toluene, or xylene can be used for cleanup after the putty has dried. Brands include: Elmer's Carpenters wood filler, Fill N' Finish, ZAR wood path, and 3M brand Just like Wood, and others.

How to Clean a Paintbrush

Proper cleaning and storage of your paintbrushes is critical for extending their life span. A poorly maintained brush won't produce satisfactory results and may have to be thrown out prematurely.

Unless you are planning on using the brush later that day it must be thoroughly cleaned and stored to maintain its performance and shape. If you are planning to use the brush with the same finish later that day it can be stored in a container of the appropriate solvent (read the cleanup direction on the can for more info) until needed. You can also wrap the brush in plastic to shield the bristles from air for shorter re-coat periods. Firewood, logs, eco logs, fire hearth, hardwoods, fireplace, bonfire.

Cleaning the Brush
For water based finished you can clean the brush in a sink with soap and water. Lather, rinse, and repeat ensuring that all soap has been washed from the brush. If the finish is anything other than water based follow these steps. Firewood, logs, eco logs, fire hearth, hardwoods, fireplace, bonfire.

Introduction

When selecting the perfect wood finish it’s easy to become overwhelmed with all of the slick labels and marketing hype. A quick trip to the local home project center will reveal the hundreds of different choices. The term finish is often used loosely to refer to any chemical that is applied to wood. The term actually refers to a clear protective coating that sits on or in the surface of the wood. Firewood, logs, eco logs, fire hearth, hardwoods, fireplace, bonfire.

 Stain, Paint, and Finish are the three primary classifications for common wood treatments. Stains contain pigments and are used to tint the wood. Paints contain colored pigments and sit on the wood to form a protective coating. Some finishes are simply paint with out the pigment that lay down a clear protective coating. There are five common types of finishes on the market. They are:

Applying finishes is one part of woodworking that doesn’t require many tools. In fact there are only three main tools used to apply all of the finishes listed above; rags, brushes, and a spray gun. Many professionals will use a spray gun for smooth even coats. Firewood, logs, eco logs, fire hearth, fireplace, hardwoods, bonfire.

Selecting a Clear Finish

When you are selecting a clear finish it is important to remember the qualities you require from the finish.

• It must protect the wood.

• It must be durable enough for the intended application.

• It should be as easy to apply as possible.

 Vapor Exchange

To protect your project for the long term you should select a finish that has a maximum resistance to moisture vapor exchange. Thicker finishes tend to slow down this exchange more. Keep in mind though that thicker might not always be better. Polyurethane is more prone to cracking after 4 or 5 coats. In this case, varnish might be the best choice. Firewood, logs, eco logs, fire hearth, hardwoods, bonfire.

Durability

The durability of a wood finish is an important part of protecting the wood beneath. A durable finish is more important for a tabletop than a mantle or picture frame. Durability has more to do with the chemistry of the finish than the number of coats. For example a single coat of polyurethane is more durable than multiple coats of a water based finish. Firewood, logs, eco logs, fire hearth, hardwoods, fireplace, bonfire.

Ease of Application

It’ll probably surprise you to learn that the ease of applications is one of the key factors to achieving a professional finish. Slow drying finishes like polyurethane and varnish are relatively easy to apply with a brush. However, their slow dry time leaves them vulnerable to dust landing on the surface and leaving spots. Faster drying finishes can be difficult or impossible to apply without a spray gun. Oil finishes aren’t affected by dust since they soak into the wood. Firewood, logs, eco logs, fire hearth, hardwoods, bonfire.

Now that we’ve covered some of the basics let’s take a look at the different type of finishes. There are five primary types of finishes, a bunch of sub-categories, and a limitless number of brand names for these finishes.

Oil Finishes

These types of finishes have been used for centuries to treat and preserve wood. Oils are different from most other finishes on the market because they seep into the wood and penetrate the wood’s fibers. Because of this, oil finishes cannot be built up to a thick coat like polyurethane or varnish can. They offer less protection but are also easier to apply which is their primary advantage. Another advantage is that simply simply wiping on more oil can often repair minor scratches. Firewood, logs, eco logs, fire hearth, hardwoods, fireplace, bonfire.

There are two types of oils, those that cure and those that don’t cure. Oils that don’t cure should generally be avoided because that can continue to seep into the wood leaving the surface unprotected. They can also leave a sticky surface on the wood. Linseed oil and Tung Oil are both oils that cure and work well as finishes. Fire wood, logs, eco logs, fire hearth, hardwoods, fireplace, bonfire.

Linseed Oil

This oil is made from the seeds of the flax plant. Look for “Boiled” linseed oil. This product has an added metallic drying agent that helps the finish dry in a day. Linseed oil without this additive can take over a week to dry.

Tung Oil

Pure Tung oil is pressed from the nuts of the Tung tree. Unlike Linseed Oil, this finish does not require drying additives and cures in several days.

Applying Oil Finishes

The primary advantage of using these finishes is their ease of application. Simply wipe it onto the surface with a clean cotton rag, wait 10 minutes, and applying more oil and allow time to cure. Always sand lightly between coats. Linseed Oil generally requires three coats to achieve the “hand rubbed” look. Tung Oil may require 5-6 coats to achieve the same results. The first few coats will tend to cure rough but will even out during the last few coats. Firewood, logs, eco logs, fire hearth, hardwoods, bonfire.

Varnish

Varnishes are one of the most protective finishes available. This level of protection increases with additional layers. The primary down side of varnishes is that they are slow drying which can allow dust and dirt time to settle and damage the finish. Because of this it is best to finish your project in a clean dust-free room if possible.

Varnishes are produced by cooking an oil and mixing it with a resin such as synthetic alkyds, phenolics, and polyurethanes. Interestingly, polyurethane finish is actually varnish made with polyurethane resin to make the finish more protective and durable. Firewood, logs, eco logs, fireplace,  fire hearth, hardwoods, bonfire.

When more oil is used than resin the finish becomes more flexible. This type of varnish is called “Spar Varnish” and is ideal for outdoor use because the flexibility makes it more forgiving of seasonal wood movement. Firewood, logs, eco logs, fireplace, fire hearth, hardwoods, bonfire.

Applying Varnishes

Achieving a perfect varnish finish is a combination of skill and experiences as well as access to the right tools for the job. Work in a clean dust-free environment. The room should be prepared by wiping it down surfaces with a damp cloth. Also be aware of dust that can be generated by human skin and clothing. The wood should be wiped with a tack cloth and the finish transferred into a separate working container. Firewood, logs, eco logs, fire hearth, hardwoods, bonfire.

Varnish is usually applied with a brush using long steady brush strokes. In contrast to paint varnish brush strokes are much more apparent. Work in the direction of the grain and “tip-off” your brush strokes with lightly brushed vertical strokes. Varnish should be wet sanded between coats with a fine sandpaper.

Wiping Varnish

“Wiping Varnish” that has been thinned with Paint Thinner is also available. Use caution since some manufacturers refer to their wiping varnish as “Tung Oil”. Read the labels carefully since these products are completely different. One way to test this product is to pour some of the finish onto a piece of glass and allow it to dry. If the finish cures to a hard finish it’s varnish. This product can be applied with a brush like varnish or with a cotton rag like an oil finish. The advantage of wiping varnish over an oil finish is that you can leave some of the finish on the surface and build up to a thicker coat. Firewood, fireplace,  logs, eco logs, fire hearth, hardwoods, bonfire.

Oil/Varnish Blends

Just to make thing a little more confusing the finish manufacturers introduced a blend of varnish and tung or linseed oil. These finishes are applied and act similar to an oil finish but the varnish adds some additional protection. They will still cure in the wood like an oil finish and should not be used if you plan on building up layers on the surface. Firewood, logs, eco logs, fire hearth, fireplace, hardwoods, bonfire.

Shellac 

Shellac is one of the few natural resins still in use today. Although not as durable as a Lacquer or Varnish, shellac still provides a modest amount of protection. Shellac is not the best finish for tabletops, chairs, and kitchen cabinets due to high wear requirements of these items. Firewood, logs, fireplace, eco logs, fire hearth, hardwoods, bonfire.

The big advantage, and the reason the finish is still in use today, is that Shellac is alcohol based which makes it very fast drying. Because Shellac is fast drying it is less likely to collect dust like varnish. It is often too thick to apply with a brush and requires thinning with denatured alcohol before it can be brushed. This finish also requires that you work fast with your brush and maintain a wet edge. Firewood, fireplace, logs, eco logs, fire hearth, hardwoods, bonfire.

It is available in a range of colors from clear to an orange/amber color. Orange/Amb Fire wood, logs, eco logs, fire hearth, hardwoods, bonfire.er shellac is known for the warm tones it gives wood. Shellac breaks down over time, so be sure to purchase a fresh can, and don’t use anything over a year old.

Lacquer

Lacquer is used most often in furniture factories because its fast drying properties reduce dust related finish problems. It is usually applied with a spray gun although “brushing lacquers” that cure slowly are also available. If you choose to spray a lacquer finish be aware that the fumes are hazardous to your health and the dry dust can be explosive. Firewood, logs, eco logs, fire hearth, hardwoods, fireplace, bonfire.

Water-Based Finishes

Because of increasing environmental concerns a new class of finished has been developed. These “Water-Based” finishes are often marketed as “polyurethane”, “varnish”, or “lacquer” which is untrue since all of these finishes are solvent-based. You can tell if a finish is water based because the can should mention “water cleanup” as an added feature. “Water-based” finishes are basically latex paint without a pigment. The two primary downsides are that they tend to hold visible brush marks and are less durable than the more conventional finished. They also tend to bubble with brushing. You’ll want to use a synthetic bristle brush and try not to over-brush the surface. Also try to avoid temperature and moisture ranges that exceed indoor conditions. Moisture or temperature ranges on either end of the scale can cause drying problems. Firewood, logs, eco logs, fire hearth, hardwoods, fireplace, bonfire.

Sanding your Finishes

Equipping a New Hobby
A guide to building your workshop’s tool collection.

New woodworkers often e-mail me asking which tools they should purchase to equip their growing workshop. There’s really no definite answer, as the list of required tools changes based upon the projects they attempt to build. First though, I would like to discuss tool quality and why it might not be worth purchasing the best tools.

When you go to the store to buy a power tool you are going to see a wide range of manufacturers and prices. Generally the more expensive the tool the better the quality. Better quality tools have better parts, design features, and tighter manufacturing tolerances. They also generally perform better when in use. I usually buy the best tool that I can afford, but I also use my tool quite a bit and demand a lot from them. If you are just starting out and can only invest a limited amount of money in setting up your shop I wouldn’t buy the best. There are some exceptions to this rule but generally if this is going to be a weekend hobby and you’re not working on advanced projects there probably isn’t a need for the best tools. I would still look for a quality tool at a reasonable price and would probably shy away from the rock bottom priced off-brand tools. The following list details the tools and the order I would purchase them.  Firewood, logs, eco logs, fire hearth, hardwoods, fireplace, bonfire.

Tool #1 - Drill
I would start with a good 3/8" corded drill. With a screwdriver attachment you can use it to accomplish a number of different tasks. I wouldn’t start off with a cordless drill. They are more convenient but are also quite a bit more expensive. Firewood, logs, eco logs, fire hearth, hardwoods, bonfire.

Tool #2 - Circular Saw
You can use a circular saw to trim down plywood and perform basic cuts on 2"x4"s. There are a number of woodworking plans out there that only require these two tools. (i.e. picnic table)

Tool #3 - Finishing Sander
This type of sander generally uses a ¼ piece of sandpaper and is used for finish sanding. It’s great for smoothing out a surface for painting or finishing. You can also use it to round over edges on some of your projects.

Tool #4 - Jig Saw
A hand held jig saw is great for cutting curves and rough outlines. If you plan to build lawn ornaments this is a must have tool.

Tool #5 - Table Saw
The table saw is one tool I wouldn’t skimp on. There are many small inexpensive table saws out there but unfortunately they are under-powered and don’t work very well. It is important that you purchase a table saw with a good powerful motor. Otherwise the blade will tend to stall when ripping wood and even burn some of your work. Equally important is that the fence be of a decent length and lock down tight without movement. If price is a good judge I wouldn’t go below $300 – even on my first saw.

Tool #6 - Router
Just like a table saw I wouldn’t skimp on a router. A router is a tool that’s used to cut a profile into the edge of a piece of wood. (The profile on the edge of your dining room table was probably cut by a router.) They can also be used to cut molding and special profiles. When used with a "pilot bit" the router can be used to trim plastic laminate and cut parts from a template. Routers are available in plunge and fixed versions. The plunge router is spring loaded on its base and can be pushed down into a workpiece for special cuts. The other factor in router is the bit size. They are generally available in ¼ and ½" . This refers to the size of the router bit it will hold. If you plan to work your way up into larger projects you will need ½" bits. I made the mistake of purchasing a ¼" router when I first started and later had to buy a ½" in order to use many of the larger router bits I wanted. My recommendations are to buy a ½" plunge router with a decent amount of power. Also be sure to purchase top quality carbide tipped router bits. Inexpensive router bits tend to be made with lower quality materials and ground to less precise tolerances. Firewood, logs, eco logs, fire hearth, fireplace, hardwoods, bonfire.

Tool #7 - Band Saw
You can use a band saw for a number of projects. It’s extremely useful for cutting shapes and curves. You can also use a bandsaw for re-sawing lumber and cutting boards from logs.

Tool #8 - Compound Miter Saw
You can perform compound miter cuts on a table saw but this tool is a lot easier to use.

Tool #9 - Lathe
More important than the quality of the lathe is the quality of the turning tools you use. I spent about $150 on my lathe and about $200 on my first set of turning tools.

Tool #10 - Biscuit Joiner
A biscuit joiner is an excellent tool for joining together pieces of wood. The tool cuts a small slot in each side of a joint and a biscuit is inserted and glued in place to hold the parts together. A biscuit joiner can really speed up assembly of a project. Firewood, logs, eco logs, fire hearth, fireplace, hardwoods, bonfire.

Tool #11 - Belt Sander
Belt sanders are great for rapidly smoothing lumber as well as shaping parts and objects.